Automotive · restomod · kit cars · standalone ECU · EV

Automotive wiring harness design for restomods, kit cars and special vehicles

From surveying the original loom to the build board: schematic, 1:1 Layout, Deutsch, Metri-Pack or Superseal connectors pulled from Digi-Key with their cavities, BOM in Excel and PDF drawings with lengths and a connection table. In the browser, documented the way a serious workshop expects.

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Sector challenges

What separates a harness that lasts twenty years from one that comes back to the workshop

A car packs an oven, a salt shower and a cocktail shaker into two metres. The wiring has to survive all three without anyone remembering it exists.

01

The engine bay does not forgive the wrong cable

Oil, petrol, 125 °C beside the manifold, vibration and pressure washing. Cabin-grade PVC cracks within two winters; an unsealed connector corrodes the terminal from the inside. Choosing temperature class, connector family and protection by zone is the design, not a detail.

02

The original loom is gone, or no longer fit for purpose

In a restomod or a conversion the factory wiring gets cut, spliced and patched until nobody knows what each wire does. The alternative is to survey it, define a new architecture (fuses or PDM, standalone ECU, CAN to the dash) and build from scratch, measured on the actual car.

03

Documentation the next mechanic can actually use

The car will be back in five years with a fault and a different technician in front of it. A from-to table, a harness drawing with lengths, the BOM and the schematic turn a hand-built job into a repairable product. Without them, every fault is a post-mortem.

Technical guide

How to design an automotive harness that lasts: cable, connectors, protection and architecture

The criteria a tier-one harness maker applies, translated into what an auto-electrical workshop, a restorer or a small vehicle manufacturer needs. They do not replace the standard or the connector datasheet, but they avoid the mistakes that show up in almost every harness that arrives to be redone.

Automotive cable: ISO 6722, FLRY, FLR2X and SAE J1128

Vehicle cable is not building wire under another name. ISO 6722 sets how the insulation behaves against temperature, fluids (oil, petrol, diesel, brake fluid), abrasion and ageing, and sorts it into classes: A (85 °C), B (100 °C), C (125 °C), D (150 °C), E (175 °C) and F (200 °C). The class is the temperature the insulation withstands continuously for thousands of hours. In the cabin, class B is enough; near manifolds and turbo, C or D is specified.

Europe uses the DIN 72551 designations. FLRY-A and FLRY-B are thin-wall PVC over fine-stranded copper, class B (100 °C, often sold as T105); the A has the thinner wall. It is the cabin cable and most of a production loom. FLR2X, cross-linked polyethylene (XLPE), moves up to class C with 150 °C variants: engine, gearbox, exhaust area. FLR9Y, a thermoplastic elastomer (TPE), covers the same range with better cold flexibility and abrasion resistance. The American world works to SAE J1128: TXL, GXL and SXL are 125 °C XLPE that differ only in wall thickness (TXL thin, SXL thick), and GPT is the basic 80 °C PVC that should never enter an engine bay.

AWG and mm² do not line up (0.5 mm² is close to 20 AWG; 1.5 mm² sits between 16 and 15; 2.5 between 14 and 13; 6 mm² between 10 and 9): if a terminal datasheet says "16-20 AWG", 1.5 mm² just fits and 2.5 does not.

TypeInsulationClass / temperatureWhere it goes
FLRY-A / FLRY-BThin-wall PVCB · 100 °C (T105)Cabin, boot, doors, dashboard
FLR2XXLPEC · 125 °C (150 °C variants)Engine bay, transmission, near the exhaust
FLR9YTPEC-D · 125-150 °CEngine with movement, abrasion, extreme cold
TXL / GXL / SXL (SAE J1128)XLPE, three wall thicknesses125 °CAmerican equivalent; TXL for weight, SXL in harsh zones
Shielded pairPVC or XLPE + braid or foilAs base cableCAN, crank and cam sensors, knock, lambda

For colours, IEC 60757 defines the international abbreviations (BK, BN, RD, YE, GN, BU, VT, GY, WH) and DIN 47100 the sequence for multicore cables, but European schematics use the German codes: SW black, BR brown, RT red, GE yellow, GN green, BL blue, VI violet, GR grey, WS white. The stripe follows the slash (SW/WS: black with a white stripe). Two traps: GR is grey, not green, and SW (schwarz) is not WS (weiß).

Wire size, voltage drop and fusing

Wire size is decided by three things at once: continuous current, real run length and acceptable voltage drop. The formula is ΔU = ρ × L × I / S, with ρ for copper around 0.0175 Ω·mm²/m at 20 °C and about 0.021 when hot, and L equal to feed plus return (if the return is through the chassis, count the ground lead up to the star point). At 12 V a sensible limit is 0.3 to 0.5 V for power loads and less for ECU and sensors. Example: a 15 A fuel pump with a 4 m feed and 1 m of ground, for a 0.4 V drop, needs S = 0.021 × 5 × 15 / 0.4 ≈ 3.9, that is, 4 mm²; by current alone 2.5 would have done, and the pump would have run below its calculated pressure.

The fuse protects the wire, not the load: choose it above the service current, with margin for motor start-up, and below what the wire can carry inside the bundle, which is less than in free air. The run between battery and first protection is unfused, so it must be short, heavy and mechanically protected. And the size has to fit the connector terminal; often it is the connector that fixes the final wire size.

Typical mistake: sizing "by eye". Copying the original wire gauge without knowing whether that circuit had a relay, or sizing by current without looking at length, produces dim headlamps, cavitating pumps and ECUs that reset on cranking. Voltage drop is calculated with the length measured on the car.

Connectors, terminals and crimping

Outside the cabin every connector is sealed, and each family has its niche: Deutsch (now TE) DT, DTM and DTP in special vehicles, off-road and club motorsport; Aptiv (formerly Delphi) Weather-Pack and Metri-Pack 150, 280 and 480 (the number is the terminal width in hundredths of an inch, with GT 150 and GT 280 as OEM successors) in the American world; Bosch Kompakt (BDK), TE AMP Superseal 1.5 and the Junior Power Timer of the MCP family in the German groups; Sumitomo and Yazaki in Japanese vehicles and motorcycles; Molex MX150 in machinery and heavy vehicles. Inside the cabin, unsealed connectors with 0.64 mm MQS terminals fill the control units.

FamilySealingCurrent per way (indicative)CableTypical use
Deutsch DTMIP67 / IP687.5 A0.2-1 mm²Sensors, signals, standalone ECU
Deutsch DTIP67 / IP6813 A0.5-2 mm²Actuators, lighting, medium power
Deutsch DTPIP67 / IP6825 A2-6 mm²Pumps, fans, power feeds
Aptiv Weather-PackPer-wire sealsUp to 20 A0.5-3 mm²Classic GM and American aftermarket
Aptiv Metri-Pack 150 / 280 / 480Sealed or unsealed14 / 30 / 42 A0.35-1 / 1-3 / 3-6 mm²Sensors / pumps and alternator / heavy loads
TE AMP Superseal 1.5SealedAround 14 A0.5-2.5 mm²Tuning, sensors, small engine-bay loads
TE JPT / MCP 2.8 · Bosch BDKSealed and unsealed versionsLow to medium0.35-2.5 mm²Relays, injectors, sensors, German OEM
TE MQS 0.64UnsealedSignal0.22-0.5 mm²ECU and module connectors in the cabin

The terminal matters as much as the housing and only works with its cable and its tool. Stamped open-barrel terminals are F- or B-crimped with the die for their geometry and wire size; solid Deutsch contacts, with a calibrated indent crimper. The insulation crimp must not bite the conductor, and the wire seal must match the insulation outside diameter, which differs between FLRY-B and FLR2X of the same size. Secondary locks close the system: the TPA locks terminals in their cavities and the CPA stops the halves separating under vibration. A sealed connector is only sealed with every cavity populated or plugged, and the IP rating (IPX7 immersion, IPX9K hot pressure water) refers to the closed connector. Bulkhead pass-throughs use rubber grommets or, where disconnection is needed, bulkhead connectors, the norm in motorsport.

Typical mistake: crimping with general-purpose pliers. A terminal squashed without its die looks secure, reads continuity and fails months later from fatigue and oxidation under the insulation. Every terminal demands its own tool; without it, change connector rather than improvise.

Harness protection by zone

In the cabin, PET fleece tape (Tesa 51608 and equivalents) damps vibration, prevents rattles and resists abrasion at minimal weight; spiral-wrapped with overlap, it is enough for most branches. In the engine bay the reference is PA6 polyamide convoluted conduit, split or closed; high-temperature PET cloth tapes (Tesa 51036 and equivalents, 150 °C and flame-retardant) protect without the bulk of the tube, and PVC or TPE sleeving handles short branches with tight bends. At ends and transitions goes adhesive-lined heat shrink, which seals, holds the conduit and stops its edge cutting the insulation.

Cable should not pass near the manifold, turbo or catalyst; where there is no alternative, keep it as far away as possible and protect it with aluminised fibreglass sleeving. In the splash zone every connector sits with its wire exit pointing down, a drip loop and plugs in unused cavities. Fixings go every 20 to 30 cm with lined P-clips, never cable ties on brake or fuel lines, and every bulkhead pass-through gets its grommet. The bend radius should not drop below four or five times the harness diameter, and the connector exit must run straight for a few centimetres before the first bend.

Typical mistake: conduit right up to the connector with no relief. Rigid tube butted against the connector turns every vibration into a lever on the terminals. Finish the conduit a few centimetres short with adhesive-lined heat shrink and let the wires reach the connector flexible.

Architecture: grounds, power, CAN, ECU and high voltage

The first drawing of a new harness is the ground plan. Battery, block and body are joined with heavy cables onto bare metal; the power ground (injectors, coils, pump) comes off the block, and module and dash grounds come off a single star point. Sensor grounds do not go to the body: they return to the ECU on their own wire. Power is distributed from a fuse and relay box (mini or micro, MIDI and MEGA for the alternator and heavy loads) or from a power distribution module (PDM) with solid-state outputs; each output is sized to the wire it protects.

The CAN bus follows ISO 11898-2: twisted pair, linear topology, 120 Ω at each end (60 Ω measured between CAN-H and CAN-L with the system off) and short stubs, of the order of tens of centimetres. With a digital dash, standalone ECU and PDM on the same bus, only two may have termination enabled. LIN is a single-wire, slow, cheap bus for switches and climate control, with no termination. A standalone-ECU harness is designed from the manufacturer's pinout: crank and cam in shielded pair with the shield grounded at the ECU end only, power through a fused main relay, separate grounds and coil wiring kept away from sensor wiring. Inductive loads generate transients when switched off (ISO 7637-2 describes the pulses; ISO 16750-2, the tests), and the harness answer is a diode or suppressor at the load and separate routing. In electric conversions, high voltage runs in orange shielded cable (LV 216), with an interlock loop (HVIL) that cuts the voltage if a connector opens, physically separated from the 12 V harness; it requires specific training and only that separation is noted here.

Typical mistake: ground on painted panel. A bolt onto paint or e-coat reads fine on day one and rises in resistance over time; signals drift and intermittent faults appear that nobody can reproduce. Grounds go onto bare metal, protected afterwards, and are documented on the drawing.

Standards, quality, documentation and the restomod process

The most widespread acceptance standard is IPC/WHMA-A-620, whose class 2 is the usual reference in automotive and special vehicles. Connector system performance is specified by SAE/USCAR-2 and crimp performance by SAE/USCAR-21; ISO 8092 covers on-board wiring connections and LV 214 is the German OEM connector specification. For a workshop these translate into four checks: crimp pull test (with minimums that rise with wire size), cross-section micrograph on the important series (uniform compression, no voids or stray strands), inspection of the insulation crimp, and 100 % continuity and short-circuit testing against the from-to table. The minimum documentation is the schematic, the from-to table with connector, cavity, colour and size, the harness drawing with lengths, and the BOM with part numbers.

The process for a restomod or a kit car is always similar. Survey the original loom: photos, labels at every end, continuity and a reconstruction of the schematic. Define the new architecture (fuses or PDM, ECU, dash, what is kept) and draw it complete before cutting anything. Measure lengths on the assembled car, with string following the real route, or on a 1:1 drawing. With those measurements build the formboard with forks at every breakout, label every end with printed heat shrink and test the harness on the bench before fitting. The same ideas, with more demanding materials, apply in motorsport, aerospace and military and industrial work.

From need to tool

What an automotive harness needs and where it lives in harnessPRO

Every row is a real function of the application. What harnessPRO does not do (simulate, calculate derating, manufacture) you will not find here either.

Draw the new architecture: connectors, splices, relays, diodes on inductive loads and the CAN twisted pairs.
Schematic view. Connectors with cavities, splices, twisted pairs, diodes and resistors; the netlist is built as you draw and feeds the other views.
Build on a board: where each breakout goes, how long each branch is and which way each connector exits, tracing the route over the engine-bay photo.
Layout view at 1:1. Branch points, boots oriented by type, manual harness routing and coloured groups; one background image (photo or drawing) per view to draw over with transparency.
Bring in the 12-way Deutsch DT, the Metri-Pack 280 or the Superseal 1.5 with cavities, gender and manufacturer without typing them.
Integrated Digi-Key catalogue. Search the part number and the connector lands in Parts with cavities, gender, manufacturer and price, reusable across all your harnesses.
Wire a standalone ECU or a PDM from the manufacturer's pin table, with ranges, no-connect pins and descriptions.
Pinout import. Paste the table onto the connector and the cavities come out named and described, ready to connect in the schematic.
A shopping list by manufacturer and part number: housings, terminals, seals, plugs, cable, conduit, tape.
BOM to CSV / Excel. Generated from Parts with the harness's real quantities, ready for the distributor order.
Documentation for workshop and customer: schematic, drawing with lengths, from-to table with connector, cavity, colour and gauge.
PDF drawings with title block. Connection tables, lengths and gauges, with revisions and snapshots to know which version was fitted; JSON for backup.
Recover harnesses already designed in RapidHarness without redrawing them.
Import RapidHarness PDFs. One or several at once: connectors, wiring and BOM are rebuilt as an editable harness.
How the work flows

A restomod harness in four steps

01 · SCHEMATIC

Draw the architecture

With the car surveyed, draw the new schematic: fuses or PDM, ECU with its imported pinout, sensors, actuators, grounds and CAN to the dash. Every wire carries colour, size and cable type from the start.

02 · LAYOUT 1:1

Route the harness over the car

Load the engine-bay photo or chassis drawing as background, place connectors and branch points at real scale and orient boots and branches. The lengths you measure are documented in the harness.

03 · PARTS / BOM

Close the shopping list

Pull housings and terminals from Digi-Key, add seals, plugs, cable, conduit and tape as accessories and export the BOM to Excel to order everything in one go.

04 · DRAWINGS

Deliver drawings people can use

Export the PDF with schematic, harness drawing, lengths and from-to table. Build on the board from it, test continuity and leave the customer the car's folder.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions about automotive harnesses

Which cable should I use in the engine bay?

ISO 6722 class C or D cable (125 or 150 °C): FLR2X (XLPE) or FLR9Y (TPE) in European designations; TXL, GXL or SXL to SAE J1128 in American ones. PVC FLRY-B (100 °C) is cabin cable, not manifold, turbo or gearbox cable. Near direct heat sources, also keep the harness away and add aluminised fibreglass sleeving.

What wire size do I need for a given current?

Current alone does not decide it. Work out the voltage drop over the real run: ΔU = ρ × L × I / S, with ρ for hot copper around 0.021 Ω·mm²/m and L the sum of feed and return. Set a limit (0.3 to 0.5 V at 12 V for power loads, less for the ECU), solve for S, then check that the fuse protects the wire and that the size fits the connector terminal.

Deutsch DT or DTM?

DTM uses size 20 contacts for 0.2 to 1 mm² and about 7.5 A per way: signals, sensors and ECU wiring. DT uses size 16 contacts for 0.5 to 2 mm² and about 13 A: actuators, small pumps, lighting. For more current, DTP (size 12) reaches 25 A with 2 to 6 mm². All three are sealed, but contacts and crimp tooling are not interchangeable between series.

How is an automotive wiring harness protected?

By zone. In the cabin, PET fleece tape against noise and abrasion. In the engine bay, PA6 convoluted conduit or high-temperature PET cloth tape, with aluminised sleeving near the exhaust. At transitions and connector exits, adhesive-lined heat shrink. Fixings every 20 to 30 cm with lined clips, a grommet at every bulkhead pass-through and generous bend radii.

Convoluted conduit or tape?

Conduit protects better against abrasion and radiated heat, but it is heavier, bulkier and transmits vibration to the connector if it runs right up to it with no relief. PET tape is light and follows bends and breakouts. A good harness combines both: tape in the cabin and on thin branches, conduit on exposed engine-bay and underbody runs, and heat shrink at the ends so the tube cannot bite the wire.

How do I build a harness for a standalone ECU?

Start from the manufacturer's pinout. Separate grounds: sensor grounds go only to the ECU, power grounds (injectors, coils, pump) to a solid engine ground. Crank and cam sensors run in shielded pair with the shield grounded at the ECU end only. Power comes in through a main relay with its own fuse, and CAN is terminated with 120 Ω at each end. Draw everything before cutting, and measure lengths on the installed engine.

Is harnessPRO suitable for a restomod or a kit car?

Yes, it is one of its most common uses. You draw the new schematic with connectors, splices, relays and diodes; bring the engine-bay photo or chassis drawing into Layout as a background image and route the harness at 1:1; pull Deutsch, Metri-Pack or Superseal connectors from Digi-Key with their cavities; and export the BOM to Excel and PDF drawings with lengths and a connection table to build on the board. The free Garage plan lets you start with nothing to install.

Start with the schematic of the next car

Free Garage plan with 3 harnesses and 50 connections per harness. Pro at €39/month or €372/year and Team at €29 per user per month (minimum 3), taxes included. The full manual is in the documentation; the features, on the home page.